The world’s road networks are highly disturbed and fragmented areas that negatively affect many animals. Wildlife-vehicle collisions are one of the more visible effects of road, estimated to be the second-largest cause of human-related deaths in animals. One of the by-products of the Covid-19 pandemic was much lower levels of human activity related to lockdowns enforced in many countries to reduce the spread of the disease. This decrease in human activity has been named the “anthropause”, which was at its peak in April 2020. With the anthropause came a large decrease in vehicle traffic. The impact of the anthropause, particularly of decreased traffic, on species, was examined in a recent publication co-authored by EWT scientists*. With worldwide travel restrictions in full effect from April 2020, vehicle use dropped by over 50% in many countries. During this same period, scientists found a significant drop in wildlife-vehicle collisions, with as much as a 48% reduction recorded in some countries. The absence of traffic also likely brought about behavioural changes in wildlife and could have had various other ecological effects not yet documented. Some possible changes include animals being able to move more freely between fragmented landscape patches, increases in survival and population sizes, and less spreading of invasive species along roads (see figure below, from Perkins et al. 2022, which illustrates some of the possible impacts of a reduction in traffic).
Traffic noise was another aspect reviewed in this study. Researchers found that animals were less fearful with reduced traffic noise over the lockdown period. Furthermore, they noted that there were localised changes in animal distributions. For example, large animals were spotted moving through urban areas. The lowered volume of traffic noise also resulted in some birds changing their tune. For example, urban birds have been observed to alter the frequency of their song as they no longer had to compete with traffic noise. While lockdowns provided temporary relief, allowing wildlife to thrive again, human activity is recovering to pre-pandemic levels. This brief pause has allowed us to gain new insights into the impact of traffic on wildlife. The return of traffic highlights the need to have proper surveillance measures in place to help document, explain, and reduce the effects of roads on wildlife and critically evaluate the impacts of this widespread human activity on wildlife. *Perkins, S. E., Shilling, F., & Collinson, W. (2022). Anthropause opportunities: Experimental perturbation of road traffic and the potential effects on wildlife. Frontiers in Ecology and Evolution, 192.**The EWT has a road watch app for you to record any roadkill sightings, helping us to identify hotspot areas and the species most at risk. Search for Road Watch on the Google Play Store to download the app!
The world has many challenges facing it right now, and life is not easy for almost anyone anywhere. No matter how diverse the problems are, they are all characterised by a single factor: a deepening and widening lack of ethical, honest leadership. From the Ukraine – Russian war; to corruption and the collapse of South African SOEs; the lack of service delivery; human-induced climate change; the poor management of the COVID pandemic, and the shocking decisions in the USA to reduce a woman’s right to govern her own body whilst at the same time reducing the limits on carrying handguns in public in New York, leading to “a significant increase in handgun license applications” (Observer, 6/27/22)…. The list is endless. One can hardly think of a political or institutional leader with the faith and trust of their people right now as communities increasingly lose hope that their futures are safeguarded by those they elected to protect them.
How did we find ourselves in a global crisis of the decline in the legitimacy and credibility of leadership almost everywhere? In nature, leadership is earned, after hard and often damaging battles are won, where one’s right to lead is earned by a show of strength, tactical brilliance, commitment and courage. All of which only has meaning because it demonstrates one’s ability to protect, safeguard and ensure future life in the herd/pack /flock you will lead. And leadership is temporary. For once you fail, once you are weak, once you cannot defend, protect, feed, lead or secure the future of your followers, you are out. You do not retain your position through a rigged election or well-funded campaigns, and you cannot continue in a position of power if the future of your followers and the survival of your species is at risk by your actions. Selfishness is not rewarded, and personal gain is punished in a world where leadership is a great responsibility awarded to only the finest and for only that time in which they can prove their worth to the larger group. Every single day.
So how does the most intelligent species of them all find itself in a position where our leaders may well be our downfall and the biggest risk to the future of humanity? Of all the distinctions between humans and the rest of the creatures on this planet, this is the one that puzzles me the most. It is as if we have lost our ability to understand the most basic of all things required from our leaders and to choose them based on millennia-old criteria that really only focus on the survival of the species as the prevailing goal of all leadership.
In nature, leadership is determined entirely by the willingness of followers to be led by that individual. And what makes other animals fall into line and follow their leader? They will follow a leader they can trust to keep them safe, fed and protected; a leader that has their back at all times, a leader that acts with the best interest of the whole; and can demonstrate on a daily basis their ability to sustain the future of their species. This may require tactics like nurturing relationships, creating alignments, choosing allies, fending off enemies, following ancient traditions and demonstrating power through elaborate rituals or combats. And winning the position of leadership will most often then mean less sleep, more courage, a willingness to fight and often. Facing risk, enduring injuries, and often being quite alone.
It seems to me that human beings are doing it quite wrong when it comes to the most fundamental survival tactics of all times: that of choosing our leaders. And the proof lies in where we find ourselves as a species, with all our hardships and difficulties, all of which are entirely manmade. How did the most developed, intelligent species on earth get this one survival tactic so wrong? It is time to revert back to the hardwired expectations of leadership that are engrained in our DNA and to choose a new generation of leaders to demonstrate the kind of behaviours that will sustain our species. At the end of the day we really are just that: another species on this planet. And one which seems to have lost the instinct for survival that is so strong in the wildlife that surrounds us. It’s time to look around and learn.
Hi, I am Delta, a six-month-old brown and white Border collie. My parents work with sheep on a farm in the Eastern Cape, so I have good working genes. I recently moved to the Nama-Karoo to train as a scent detection dog with the EWT’s Drylands Conservation Programme. I hope my nose and enthusiasm will help the EWT with their conservation research projects. My first job is to find Riverine Rabbit scat, so I have started my training on the scent. However, I am still a little bit young to start working full-time, so my human (Esther Matthew) has made it her goal to expose me to as many things as possible. These include places, people and other animals! She recently took me to the EWT head office in Johannesburg. What a great experience! After around 12 hours in the car (not my favourite part), I got to play with some of the other EWT working dogs, which was fantastic. My new buddy, Mufassa, is also a Conservation Canine Cadet in training! I also got to meet loads of new people, saw my first rabbits and chickens, and see all the new sights and smell all the different smells. It was also interesting to live in a different house for a week. I’m already looking forward to my next adventure…
Wendy Collinson, EWT’s Wildlife in Transport Manager, wendyc@ewt.org.za
In my previous life, I was a physical education teacher at the Robert Clack School in the east end of London, United Kingdom, for 15 years. But I knew I needed a change and had dreams of working in Africa. And so, in 2005, I left to pursue a change of career in South Africa. A whole 17 years later, I am still living my African dream.
After some travelling, I spent six years working with large carnivores in the South African bush, firstly through Global Vision International (www.gvi.co.uk) and then with the Endangered Wildlife Trust. I worked alongside other researchers on carnivore species fitted with radio-tracking collars, which allowed us to follow them closely from the safety of our vehicle. Our goal was to better understand the animals’ movements and behaviour. A typical day would start just before dawn when we would start to track one of the collared animals until we found them. In some cases, this could go on well into the night if they were in hard-to-reach areas.
After six years of being involved full-time with carnivore research, I moved on to a new project in which I examined animal roadkill rates and the effects of road mortality on biodiversity in the Greater Mapungubwe Transfrontier Conservation Area (northern Limpopo). Studying roadkill might not sound very appealing (OK, at all appealing), but it’s important to know which species are getting killed on our roads and in what numbers. This project led me to a Master’s degree in Zoology through Rhodes University (based in Grahamstown, in the Eastern Cape, South Africa). A far cry from my previous degree in Education, with Dance and Art as my two main subjects!
I am now employed by the EWT’s Wildlife and Transport Programme, whose headquarters is in Johannesburg. I live near Durban but travel to Johannesburg to check in with the head office once every few months. The Wildlife and Transport programme looks not just at the impacts of roads on wildlife, but the whole transport sector – bird strikes at airports, increasing human safety, and train collisions with wildlife on the railway lines.
Melissa Jacobs and Sune Alexander are passionate about the plight of our wild lions and are running the Comrades Marathon to raise money for lions by supporting our lion project in the Greater Limpopo Transfrontier Park (GLTFCA).
The Endangered Wildlife Trust, SANParks, the National Administration of Conservation Areas in Mozambique, the Mozambique Wildlife Alliance, and Peace Parks Foundation have embarked on an ambitious partnership to understand and protect the GLTFCA’s population of Africa’s most iconic species. A vital project component involves monitoring lion prides across the GLTFCA using GPS satellite collars. The information provided by the collars helps anti-poaching teams to produce priority maps that show habitat, landscape features, and other resources used regularly by lions. Teams can then focus their protection efforts in high-risk areas rather than trying to secure large swathes of ‘potential’ lion habitat. Poachers sometimes use similar information to target lions more effectively, and we want to be a step ahead of them. The collars will also be used to check on the lions more frequently to identify missing individuals and track their movements to identify potential poaching activities.
The EWT will use the funds raised by Sune and Melissa to collar lions and implement relevant anti-poaching activities.
Satellite VHF Lion collars: R50,000 each
Lion monitoring for one month: R50,000
Vehicle payment and maintenance for 24 months: R250,000
100 Camera traps: R250,000
Help us do more for our wild lions – the Pride of Africa!
To find out more and support Sune and Melissa, follow this link.
Danielle Du Toit, EWT’s Birds of Prey Programme Karoo Vulture Safe Zone and Sustainable Land Management Coordinator, danielled@ewt.org.za
Battle of the Bullets was an event conceptualised during a brainstorming session in Langebaan in early 2022. The event aimed to promote a lead-free environment within the Karoo Vulture Safe Zone. Lead poisoning occurs in many ways, but in this case, the Endangered Wildlife Trust’s Birds of Prey Programme focused on poisoning from the ingestion of lead ammunition by vultures and other animals scavenging on carcasses and entrails. Vultures that ingest lead fragments from ammunition have been found to have higher levels of lead in their blood, which affects their health and can kill them. For more about how lead ammunition affects vultures, read this article.
Similarly, people who eat a lot of game meat are also at risk of lead poisoning when venison is hunted using lead ammunition. We saw Battle of the Bullets as an opportunity to engage with industry stakeholders and people on the ground who use ammunition to raise awareness of the impact of lead bullets and the available lead-free alternatives. Furthermore, we wanted to practically demonstrate how these alternatives can do the job just as well as lead bullets.
To unpack the impact of lead ammunition on the environment and vultures, we started the event with some presentations on the topic. Lizanne Nel, Conservation Manager of the SA Hunters and Game Conservation Organization, opened with a talk on the conservation impacts associated with lead ammunition and how their members can help by reducing its use.
Presentations on the impact of lead ammunition on vultures
The EWT’s Danielle du Toit, the EWT’s Karoo Vulture Safe Zone and Sustainable Land Management Coordinator, spoke about the importance of reducing the presence of lead bullets in the environment to create a vulture safe zone and benefit nature as a whole. Linda van den Heever of BirdLife South Africa dove deeper and enthralled the attendees with the science and research into lead poisoning in vultures across South Africa. Her talk was followed by an in-depth talk by Kobus du Plessis of Impala Bullets on the ballistic science behind lead- and lead-free ammunition.
Kobus du Plessis from Impala Bullets talking about ballistic science
After the presentations and a hearty lunch, we asked the bullet manufacturers to demonstrate their lead-free ammunition to show its suitability as an alternative to lead bullets. To do so, Chris Strydom of Balistix Bullets, Wessel Landman of GS Customs, and Kobus du Plessis from Impala Bullets all took turns shooting from 100 m into dummy targets made from gelatin. Gelatin targets slow and trap the energy dispersion of the bullet upon impact and along its trajectory. They are a useful educational tool to show how a bullet performs in practice. Ammunition, like many other things, is designed and manufactured according to its purpose. In a hunting bullet, one needs specific ballistic characteristics for the area in which the bullet is used and for the prey being hunted. A target shooting bullet must perform well through various challenges, including long-distance, gong shooting, and paper targets. Those present were shown how lead-free ammunition (also known as monolithic ammunition) is similarly designed, crafted, and tested for its end purpose in mind and witnessed how it performs in different scenarios.
After the demonstrations, attendees were invited to shoot at several other dummy targets themselves and join in for a few rounds of clay target shooting hosted by the Graaff-Reinet Gun Club. The afternoon was warm and calm, and those who didn’t take part in shooting sat and chatted about one thing: ammunition and what to do about it. Evening rolled around, but the day wasn’t over. Lucky draw prizes were kindly donated by Karoo Guns (two R250 gift vouchers and a hat), Boomsticks (R500 gift voucher), Nommerpas (R1,000 gift voucher), and Balistix Bullets (a bullet puller for all calibres, valued at R500). The fire was lit as the lucky draw happened, and meat began to sizzle on the grill.
The day ended with a delicious meal of classic Karoo Lamb chops, other meat, and salads, prepared to perfection by Andre and Annette Nagel and thoroughly enjoyed by all. The event achieved its objective of bringing together industry professionals and their clients, conservation officials, landowners, and local shooting enthusiasts, for an open and productive conversation about lead and lead-free ammunition and how to work together to create a lead-free environment to benefit animal and human health. Those who attended were given a well-rounded introduction to the risks to vultures and people of using lead ammunition and witnessed first-hand how lead-free ammunition performs in practice. Feedback from attendees was positive, and a shift in mindset was visible. All parties agreed that it’s time we start thinking about lead-free ammunition as a natural next step rather than an alternative.
A hearty thanks and congratulations to everyone who was part of the day. We hope to see you all again soon and continue this important conversation!
A boost to law enforcement against poaching rekindles hope in the Kafue Flats
Kelvin Steven Floyd, International Crane Foundation And Endangered Wildlife Trust Partnership, African Crane Conservation Program, Restoration Ecologist, Kafue Flats Restoration Partnership (KFRP), floyds@ewt.org.za
The Kafue Flats in southern Zambia is a wetland of international importance. It is a valuable ecosystem facing extreme pressure. Excessive poaching in and around the Kafue Flats wetlands is driving massive wildlife declines, particularly of large herbivores. One of these, the endemic Kafue Lechwe (Kobus leche kafuensis), was once widespread on the flats, with more than 80,000 individuals recorded during the 1980s. But aerial surveys recorded only 28,000 Kafue Lechwe in 2015 and less than 23,000 in 2018.
Our surveys also show declines in other large mammal populations, including Plains Zebra, African Buffalo, Oribi, and Blue Wildebeest. The latter is actually now locally extinct. But poaching on the Kafue Flats is not restricted to large herbivores. Livestock herders on the flats also poach Endangered cranes and other waterbirds. The poachers hunt the adult birds illegally and collect the eggs for food. But park management faces a major challenge with limited capacity available for wildlife protection.
What’s the problem?
Despite being a wetland of local and international importance, and the most important wetland for Wattled Cranes and Kafue Lechwe in Africa, the number of wildlife police officers (WPOs) available is half what is required to protect the 6,500 km2 Kafue Flats against poaching. The area includes the Lochinvar, Blue Lagoon National Park, and the surrounding buffer zone (the Kafue Flats Game Management Area). Low patrol efforts, low coverage, and ineffective management leave this critical wetland vulnerable to degradation and plunder.
Stepping in to help combat poaching and restore the Kafue Flats
The International Crane Foundation and Endangered Wildlife Trust Partnership (ICF/EWT) is addressing these issues to conserve wildlife populations. To do this, we have committed to five pillars of action. These include law enforcement, community engagement, ecological management, research and monitoring, and advocacy/education. Furthermore, we have entered a 20-year co-management agreement with the Zambian Department of National Parks and Wildlife (DNPW). In 2017, we started a community habitat restoration project to control the alien invasive plant, Mimosa pigra. The plant had taken over and degraded critical wildlife habitat. By 2020, we had cleared and restored about 2,350 ha of wetlands for wildlife.
Why law enforcement?
Strengthening law enforcement to stop poaching on the Kafue Flats is a top priority. And so we must recruit and deploy fully equipped, trained, and motivated personnel for targeted anti-poaching patrols. By supplementing government law enforcement capacity in this way, we will reduce the impact of poaching and reverse the decline of wildlife populations.
We must support law enforcement as well as community livelihoods if we are to save the Lechwe Antelope, buffalo, zebra, hippo, and others from poaching on the Kafue Flats. While this might seem off-mission for a crane conservation organisation, cranes and other threatened species depend on the Kafue Flats for grazing. Unfortunately, without big mammals like the Lechwe, the government won’t support the conservation of the Flats. They will consider them better used for growing crops or grazing cattle. This would be catastrophic for the Flats’ crane populations.
Wildlife heroes in the making
In February 2022, we worked with Community Resource Boards from Lochinvar and Blue Lagoon National Parks to train 55 community scouts. The scouts underwent three months of intense training at the Department of National Parks and Wildlife’s Chunga Training School in the Kafue National Park. On 7 June 2022, the scouts proudly graduated and will be deployed alongside the DNPW Wildlife Police Officers to combat poaching on the Kafue Flats. To complement their training and ensure the effectiveness of patrols, we are giving the scouts access to technology such as the Spatial Monitoring and Reporting Tool (SMART), CYBERTRACKER, and Earth Ranger.
The ICF President and CEO, Rich Beilfuss, represented the partnership and delivered the commencement address to the scouts. The ICF/EWT’s Kim Boardman, Mwape Sichilongo, Kerryn Morrison, Lourens Leeuwner, and other employees attended the colourful graduation ceremony. Two traditional leaders also graced the proceedings to show community support of the project.
The graduating community scouts (above). ICF President and CEO Rich Beilfuss delivering the commencement address (Below right).
The deployment of these scouts is a critical component of our holistic conservation approach to protecting critical habitat for the Endangered Wattled Crane and restoring vital grazing grounds and wildlife habitat while generating local employment and income through community involvement in the scouts programme and alien invasive plant control. The project will increase government capacity to manage and protect Zambian floodplains and advance global understanding of large-scale mimosa control methods and their measurable impact on biodiversity and livelihoods.
Thabo Hlatshwayo, Wildlife and Transport Programme Intern, thaboh@ewt.org.za
The N3 Toll Route (N3) passes through landscapes of grasslands, freshwater ecosystems and wetlands, which attract animals, bringing them close to the road. Land used for cultivating maise and other grain crops closer to the highway also increases bird and small mammal activity in the area, resulting in increased wildlife-vehicle collisions (i.e., roadkill). The N3 Toll Route comprises road features such as road signage, guideposts, safety barriers, boundary fence, and raised road markers. These objects are installed on the road to control traffic and improve road safety. However, numerous owl species use these road structures during the evenings to perch on while hunting for prey, such as rodents and squirrels attracted to crops and food deposited by passing vehicles. Unfortunately, this increases the risk to the birds of being struck by vehicles.
Through the strategic partnership work undertaken by the EWT and the N3TC since 2014, robust data on the incidences of roadkill have been recorded. The existing EWT-N3TC database shows that owls are the most common bird killed by vehicles on specific sections of the highway. To respond to this, the EWT recommended the installation of owl perches within the hotspot areas but away from the road, creating safe perching spots from which owls and other birds of prey can hunt safely.
We installed camera traps on the EWT-N3TC owl perch to see if birds would use these perches. Our camera traps revealed increasing birds of prey activity on the perch. Barn Owls, Black-shouldered Kites, and some falcon species have used it as their feeding restaurant. Interestingly, other wading birds like the Black-Headed Heron and passerine bird species (Stonechats and Pied Starling) have also been observed enjoying a rest on the owl perch.
Camera traps such as this are invaluable for increasing our understanding of animals’ interactions with roads – particularly what attracts them to roads. In this case, it is clear that structures similar to these perches erected on roadsides are at least in some part used for resting and feeding purposes and that by providing alternatives, we might be able to reduce the time birds spend on or near roads. We expect to learn more from these camera traps and hope you’ll stay tuned to catch rare glimpses into the daily lives of our raptors.
Pat Fletcher, who sadly passed away on 16 June 2022, was a dedicated conservationist who, working behind the scenes, made an indelible mark on the conservation of large carnivores in South Africa. I first met Pat in Johannesburg in April 1999, when I was fresh off the train from Zimbabwe, and on my way to Kruger National Park to start work on the Third Wild Dog Photographic Census. Pat had sourced and kitted out a project vehicle and secured the loan of the palatial Jurgens caravan that was to be my home for the next two years. I quickly came to learn that Pat was the quintessential go-to guy; someone you could always rely on in a bind.
Pat’s passion for nature and enthusiastic commitment to the Endangered Wildlife Trust belied the fact that he only joined the formal conservation sector in his retirement, after a successful career as a high-end motor vehicle salesman. However, it was his business acumen and worldly perspective that set him apart from the rest of us who had come to conservation through the more traditional channels. Pat was always hunting for the best deals and was never afraid to ask for a discount (or push you to ask for one!). This made an enormous contribution to the sustainability of the (then) Carnivore Conservation Group – first under the leadership of Dr Gus Mills, and later when I had the good fortune of managing the programme. Pat also cared deeply about people: he took the time to get know everyone – from the most junior staff to the wealthiest donors – and he was always genuine and authentic. There was always a long line of people outside his office hoping to get some advice; much of the time this had nothing to do with our work!
Pat could also put up a good fight, and I remember several occasions when we would storm off in opposite directions to cool off after an unsettled altercation. But he also moved quickly to reconciliation, citing the maxim: “if two people always agree then one of them is redundant”. I regularly repeat this piece of wisdom to myself – and every time I do, I think of Pat and the lasting legacy he left on myself and so many others.
I am saddened deeply by the fact that Pat is no longer with us.
Wendy Collinson
I first met Pat in 2006 when I interviewed for a volunteer position working on the Venetia Limpopo Wild Dog Project. We sat on a bench by the zebra pen at the old EWT premises at the Joburg Zoo. Pat spent most of the interview chatting about English football. I was amazed that I got the position as I told Pat I didn’t like football. Pat was so welcoming to me when I joined the EWT and I remember him fondly.
From all of us at the EWT, those who knew him and those who have heard the legends, we salute you Pat. Our sincerest condolences to Pat’s friends and family – he will be remembered fondly as someone who left a true legacy for life.
The Endangered Wildlife Trust’s Soutpansberg Protected Area Programme has established a multi-day hiking trail across the Western Soutpansberg. The trail crosses several private properties and the Luvhondo Nature Reserve. Our team has been working with these properties’ owners in a truly collaborative effort to establish a world-class trail within the proposed Western Soutpansberg Nature Reserve.
The trail aims to establish the Soutpansberg as an ecotourism destination and bring in essential sustainable funding to support our conservation efforts. It will also help drive local economic growth and establish training and job opportunities for locals, such as becoming guides on the trail.
During the week of 9 May 2022, our SPA team and managers from the other properties did a final recce of the trail, completing the full five-day slackpacking route. Here is a first-hand account of the trail by our SPA Programme Manager Cath Vise.
This week has possibly been one of my best weeks on the job. We have been dreaming of setting up with trail for the last three years, and with thanks to the F E van Pletzen/L Steynberg Trust for a generous donation towards the project, this dream is now becoming a reality.
The Old Salt Trail Slackpacker’s Deluxe (western loop) is a 75 km, five-day trail starting at our Medike Mountain Reserve. It heads up the mountain to Leshiba, then on to Sigurwana, up to Lajuma, back to Leshiba and finally back down to Medike. It goes from the lowest point of the mountain range as it crosses the Sand River (813 m) up to the highest point of the Soutpansberg, the mighty Mount Lajuma (1,727 m), with an elevation gain of nearly 1 km and a lot of ups and downs in between.
Our hikers for this week included Kathy and Pete Straughan (Leshiba’s Managers), Peter Breedveld (Sigurwana Manager) and our EWT SPA staff Chris Joubert (Medike Manager), Rotondwa Sithagu and Shumani Makwarela (Soutpansberg Rangers and FGASA Guides) and myself. We were supported by Tharollo Mthisi (Soutpansberg Ranger), who transported all our luggage from lodge to lodge throughout the week.
Climbing up out of the Sand River Gorge on Medike
We left Medike on Monday morning and headed up the mountain. This first day really gets the lungs and legs going, as it is a steep climb to get up out of the gorge. The trail then took us into the Duluni Gorge, where we followed a mountain stream up the mountain. Pete had hiked down from Leshiba and met us in the gorge. On our way up, Pete showed us a rock art site on Medike. Pete is an expert in rock art and tree identification and possibly one of the most entertaining walking encyclopaedias out there. Our journey back in time started at this site, with Pete explaining a bit about the different Bushman and their different painting styles. We carried on up the gorge onto Leshiba, where we had to climb through the first Hiker’s Doggy Door – a cunning small swing gate (that looks like a doggy door for humans) that ensures that the gate always stays closed. On Leshiba, we were lucky enough to spot a Narina Trogon, which flew over our heads and landed briefly in a branch above. They are such beautiful birds. The first night was spent at Leshiba’s Luvhondo Camp, with Giraffe walking into the camp and Cape Vultures flying low overhead, making for an amazing end to a beautiful day.
Traversing ‘The Slabs’ in Leshiba’s Hamasha Gorge
Day two’s hike started with another walk back in time as we headed through the Bushman’s Medicine Chest (medicinal trees and shrubs), another rock art site, where the stories of the past inhabitants continued to unfold. The trail then took us through Hamasha Gorge on Leshiba. This is the most difficult and technical day of hiking but is rewarded with incredible dramatic scenery, lots of water in the stream, and great company that made it a spectacular and entertaining day. We had to do a fair amount of rock-hopping along a stream bed, cross the stream a few times, then hike at an angle up ‘The Slabs’, these magnificent red rock slabs in the gorge. After a nice lunch break next to the stream, we headed west out of the gorge on a long rocky path back up the mountain. This path is an old route believed to link back to the salt pans. We then entered Sigurwana. Near the end of the hike, a beautiful Waterberry forest and a small waterfall and rock pool made the perfect place to sit and cool our feet for a while and soak up all the beauty. Liesel and Neil Wright from Sigurwana and their staff made us feel right at home with a very warm welcome and spoilt us with a wonderful evening and boma braai.
Up the mighty Mount Lajuma, looking back at what we have achieved
After a very comfortable night’s sleep in Sigurwana’s beautiful and luxurious accommodation, our team continued our journey west towards the mighty Mount Lajuma. After a climb up a rocky slope next to a waterfall, there is a long plateau on the top of Sigurwana, with open grasslands and wetlands. We visited another could rock art site, with new insights into the lives of the Bushman revealed. It was fairly easy, straightforward hiking all the way to Mount Lajuma, along both game trails and jeep tracks. We took a break at the base of Mount Lajuma to gather our strength for the climb to the top. The view from the top and the feeling of pure joy are exhilarating. What a sense of achievement as you look back across the mountain and see how far you have come. Standing on the top of Lajuma, looking back east filled me with pride and joy to see how far our Western Soutpansberg Nature Reserve stretches, with an inspiring group of landowners working together to conserve this precious mountain.
We spent the evening at Lajuma Research Centre’s Wilderness Camp, designed as student accommodation, on the edge of a cliff with beautiful views south. We spent the evening around the fire, reminiscing on the day’s adventures.
A forest wonderland with the giants
Day four was possibly the easiest hiking day, although it was the longest (19 km). We started with a scramble up ‘The Chimneys’, a rocky crevice up a cliff line to get to the plateau above. Once on the plateau, it was a long, easy hike along a trail and then jeep track, requiring us to cross a wetland and get our feet wet. It was a good opportunity to set a good pace, get into a rhythm and make up some ground on a long day. After three days of technical hiking, having this day was easy on the tired legs and a welcome break. After a short break at a stunning view spot, we entered the forest and were rendered speechless. It is an absolute wonderland, and we stared up in awe at the giant ancient Yellowwoods and Strangler Figs weaving their way between hundreds of other plants. We took our time, enjoying every minute of it and listening to the calls of the Turaco. After the forest, we hiked back down a hill on a jeep track to the Leshiba fence line. We said goodbye to Peter (from Sigurwana), who left us at this point. The final hike through Leshiba followed part of the cycling track and was a beautiful way to end a long day on the trail. We sat with our feet in the cool water of the lodge’s pool, with an ice-cold drink to cool us off, watching all the game passing through the plains below. We were spoilt again by the friendly Leshiba staff, who looked after us extremely well. The dinner conversation was full of laughter, reliving entertaining moments on the trail.
Shumi, Chris, and Rotondwa back on home turf at the top of Medike
On our final morning, we bid farewell to Kathy, who sadly had to attend to some business for the day. Pete joined us on our morning hike across Leshiba to the cliffs. We passed by about five incredible viewpoints on the edge of the mountain. We then headed back towards Medike and had to climb through another Hiker’s doggy door. Back on our home turf, the EWT team walked the final stretch. After passing by an old settlement, where we found some old pot shards, we popped out onto a small clearing and looked down into the Sand River Gorge, where our journey began five days prior. Spirits were high, and with great enthusiasm, we descended the long, steep decline to the bottom of the gorge. After a short while back on Medike’s jeep track, we were back home, and our incredible journey had come to an end.
Crossing the finish line of the Old Salt Trail
I absolutely loved this hike because every day has something completely new and different and unexpected about it. No two days are the same. We went through so many different habitats, were lucky enough to see some amazing bird and game sightings and really felt like we stepped back in time as we learnt about the Bushman gatherings on the mountain and felt like we were following their footsteps across this ancient land. Everything about the hike worked well. It is a very challenging and technical hike, requiring a good level of fitness for experienced hikers. However, your efforts on the trail are rewarded with the best hospitality on offer. What an incredible experience. I truly believe that this will become a “Bucket List” trail that you won’t want to miss!
