The drive from South Africa to Botswana felt like one long ribbon of tarmac stretching into forever, but the moment we rolled into the Okavango Delta, all thoughts of the road melted away. Our base for the start of the trip was the Anti-Poaching Unit (APU) camp, where we stayed in permanent tents. It was the kind of setup that instantly reminds you that you were properly in the bush, with just enough comfort to make you smile at the adventure ahead.

On this trip, we were collaborating with some of EWT’s long-standing partners, including Raptors Botswana, the Kalahari Research Centre, and Connect Trust. All collaborating under the shared goal of vulture conservation in the Delta.

That first evening, we settled into camp, got our gear sorted, and took in the sounds and smells of the Delta under a blanket of stars. The next morning, we began trapping, catching four White-backed Vultures on day one and a few more over the next couple of days.

On the fourth day, we packed up and moved further into the Delta, just on the edge of where floodwaters from Angola spilled through the plains. This time, Kyle and I pitched our own tents, while Gareth opted for his beloved Alu‑Cab rooftop ModCAP camper. That evening, a herd of elephants wandered into camp, scattering us into the shadows as one of the laaitie browsed his way through our tents.

But that was not the only adventurous moment of the trip. The highlight for me came one afternoon while I was on vulture watch, tucked into a hide among the thorny branches. My radio crackled to life: “Dembo, you have got an elephant heading your way.” At first, it felt distant, but moments later, I caught movement through the fabric of the hide. About 10 metres away. That was all that separated me from several tonnes of browsing pachyderm. This was my very first encounter with an elephant while not sitting safely inside a vehicle. Not wanting to test my luck, I radioed back, suggesting a rescue mission. Maluki, in his wisdom, drove straight toward where the elephant was standing. It was almost comical watching the animal change course and head right for me instead. Strangely, I stayed calm in the hide. I even found myself filming, my phone poked out just far enough to catch the moment it stopped, sniffed the air towards me, and gave me a thorough once-over before ambling away.

Nonetheless, the nights in the Delta were unforgettable. The sky glittered with stars, lions and hyenas called in the distance, insects and frogs filled our surroundings with their own chorus, and it felt alive in every direction. I remember unzipping the top rooftop flap of my tent just to stare at the endless stars above me. It gave me chills and goosebumps, a feeling I will never forget. I had never seen so many fish eagles and bateleurs in one place in my life. It felt like fish eagle heaven, their calls and presence filling the Delta skies every day.

By the end of the trip, we had fitted GPS units and rings to 15 vultures, including a handsome White-headed Vulture. Across the days, I also added 12 new species to my life list, lifers I had never seen before. Seeing and hearing the calls of these birds amongst the floodplains was the perfect ending to what was more than just fieldwork. It was a wild, unpredictable and unforgettable chapter in my conservation journey.